November 04, 2003
Photos -- Chile and Argentina
Current Location: Bariloche, Argentina (Sunny, 75ºF!)
Miles from Home: 21,540
Days on the Road: 325
Just after my last account of freezing rain and misery in southern Chile, I headed across the border to Argentina. Like a veil lifting, the rain subsided just as we crested the Andes, and I've enjoyed sunny weather ever since.
Traveling for close to a week after that with another rider I met in Chile, the next week was spent sleeping out under the stars, cooking steaks on an open fire, and enjoying some of the most beautiful scenery the Americas have to offer -- the Lake District.
With the shock out of commision for the third time (this is getting old...) a run to the southern tip right now is out of the question -- even though the weather looks ok for it. So, it's back to plan B, and off to Buenos Aires in a few days to enjoy the "Paris of South America" for a spell.
I crossed into Chile just over a month ago. Since then, I've ridden over 4,000 miles in an effort to get "Gone South" as the website name portends. I'm currently caught just 1,200 miles from the end...
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Signs of Life. Shortly after crossing into Chile, I saw this message of rocks in a dune on the side of the road -- surely a cryptic message from some band of nomadic cannibals...
In San Pedro de Atacama, I enjoyed one sunset in the Valle de la Luna, Valley of the Moon.
More San Pedro Sunset...
Dunes. The dunes surrounding San Pedro are perfect for sandboarding, so I was told...
Every day at sunset, throngs of travelers swarm to the dunes in the Valle de la Luna.
Looking back over my shoulder from the setting sun to the volcanos of southern Bolivia, just 50 km away.
Although the bike wasn't up for a grand tour of the Salars in Bolivia, we made it at last to one of Argentina's "Gran Salinas" on the way east to Salta after leaving San Pedro.
Cresting the Andes back from Mendoza, Arg. into Santiago, Chile, you descend the Devil's something or other. I never did figure out what they were saying, but anyway, it's a sight to behold.
About 20 miles south of Concepcion on the Chilean coast, El Cab and I stopped to celebrate 20,000 miles on the road together.
Although I can't stand most things about Chile (the food, the accent, the prices) the cops are pretty cool -- especially when they are riding a decked out BMW F650. At first, this officer didn't even recognize that I was riding the same bike... I wonder what that says about ol' El Cab's complexion these days.
OUCH! Hiking somewhere outside Pucón, Chile, I needed to go number 2 REAL bad. Lacking TP, I looked around for a little help from Mother Nature. Unfortunately, being in a "Monkey Puzzle" tree forest the only option she gave me was what you see above...
Traditional Mapuche Indian Dwelling. This comfy abode was my home away from home for two nights outside Pucón. Don't let the totem pole fool you, however. The two story farmhouse and hostel were right at my back. I just took to the cheaper option of camping in the hut...
Crossing the Andes into Argentina with Christian, my German biker buddy, we almost got tired of having to stop every five minutes to enjoy the incredible views. Oh, how we suffer, huh?
This country makes for pretty dramatic "motorcycle portraits."
At campsite #2 out on Llao Llao peninsula south of Bariloche, an angel of the lord descended down upon us and ordained me as the church's first openly leather pant wearing archbishop...
Just one more amazing view traveling around the Lake District. Christian told me he was going to charge me $5 a shot for all the photos I was taking of him and our bikes.
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