April 26, 2003
Photos -- Highs and Lows So Far from South America
Location: Upata, Venezuela
Miles from Home: 9,800
Days on the Road: approx. 134
What I didn't tell most people when I first got down to SA is that I spent a few days running around Bogota, Colombia without the bike before heading over to Caracas to continue on my merry way. (Sorry, Mom, but I just knew you'd have a cow!) It was well worth the stop-over and is a wonderful city full of colonial arcitechture, strong coffee, and beautiful, well-dressed people.
The bike arrived a week late in Caracas and I sped off from there to the northern Andes, then through some coastal towns until Zelie arrived. I'm currently in Upata, just north of La Gran Sabana, Venezuela's Yosemite National Park, but without the roads, facilities, traffic, people, and other such annoyances.
From there, it's into the heart of the Amazon at Manaus, Brazil. I should arrive within a few weeks. After crossing the Amazon in boat to Porto Vehlo, I'll cruise south east to the Pantanal, and into Bolivia. That should me through July.
Aside from a recent robbery (from the bike, not a hold-up), things have been very well, with the week-long visit from Zelie being the brightest highlight of late. (Love ya, babe!)
As I recently told some motorcycle compatriates after learning I had been robbed: ride safe, hug your loved ones, and watch your back.
Best regards to all,
Ed
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A small coffee shop window in old town Bogota. The woman didn't have such a bizarre look on her face when I pressed the shutter button, I promise!
This kid came down with his burro everyday from the mountains outside Bogota to collect food scraps to feed the livestock back home. It was a two hour trek each way, his shoeshine uncle told me.
From the plaza in Bogata, you could look over one shoulder of the Cathedral and see a monastary on the mountain, and over the other to see a Christ figure on the hill. Not a religious country at all.
I was welcomed in my first days in Caracas to some of the most insane traffic conditions I've ever witnessed. This included VERY optional traffic lights, four way no-stop intersections, and public buses like this one that lost its right rear tires on the middle of traffic and ground to halt on its brake drum. I saw another bus later had lost its differential in the middle of the highway, leaving the entire road covered with tranny oil. Real fun a bike, I tell you.
The crime scene after a poochie took a liking to El Cab in La Puerta, Venezuela en route to the northernmost stretch of the Andes.
Five minutes after my fall on the Merida high road. Either the camera does something to make the road seem less steep, or my memory makes it seem more so.
A roadside church on the way up the pass into Mèrida.
En route to the highest highway pass in Venezuela, Pico Aguilar at 4100 m, about 14,300 ft.
After a harrowing four hour jeep ride from Mèrida, I arrived in Los Nevados to stay for the night before starting a day hike to the top of the Aerial Tram. The word "quaint" doesn't come to mind, does it?
After five hours hiking straight up hill, I arrived at the pass between Los Nevados and Mèrida. And trust me, at close to 15,000 feet, I came to Jesus.
In Puerto Colombia just trhee hours west of Caracas, fishermen stow their colorful lanchas every night in the still waters of the stream that runs through the east end of town.
Sunset from the cannon studded promenade of Puerto Colombia.
Live entertainment at the dinner table in Isla de Margarita. After Zelie arrived, we made haste to get to Isla de Margarita for a week of relaxing on the beach. The view from our table the first night was nothing short of stunning.
After learning the day before that there were no more tickets for the ferry to get back to mainland from Isla de Margarita because of the sheer number of people traveling during Semana Santa, we decided to head down at five AM to jump on any unclaimed reserved tickets. Zelie always has that sexy faraway look in her eyes after three hours sleep.
The impeccable first class accomodations on the ferry back from Margarita. Seriously. Strangely, the only two photos I shot of Z the whole time she was down, were on the ferry back from Isla de Margarita. Guess I was too busy being sappy in love to get trigger happy with the camera. ;)
Before heading inland for the next two to three months, I decided one more day at the beach was in order. I stopped by Playa Colorada west of Caracas and enjoyed the best night's sleep I've had in weeks at "Posada Nirvana."
Street Showers. This group of kids were merrily bathing themselves in the street as I walked around town in Playa Colorada.
El Cab posing for the camera in front of the colorful façades of Cuidad Bolívar. Unfortunately, eight hours later, I found the bike in the downstairs hallway of my Hotel with half of it's contents missing. A thief had jimmied the side case open a removed more than an armful of nice gear. About $800 in total. I hope he got at least $10 for it all. Shit, I'd pay $20 to get it back!
Posted by Sully at April 26, 2003 08:35 AM